travel


On Thursday 7th August 2008, we caught a late flight from Heathrow airport.  Unlike our other weekend trips, this time we traveled mid-week on a Thursday.  This was quite rare for us, considering Ian never really likes taking time off work.  The main purpose for this trip was really for a special occasion that was to take place on Friday 8th August 2008.  No…we didn’t go to the Beijing Olympic Games…my friend Steph was getting married in Borås, Sweden!

The wedding was absolutely amazing!  I’ve never been to a Swedish wedding before so it was quite an experience :) Everything went really well and I really hope the Steph and Karl had a memorable day! XX

After the wedding, Ian and I decided to see a bit of Stockholm since we were in Sweden.  Stockholm is built on islands.  This capital city is made up of 14 islands, all connected by around 50 bridges.  It is well known for its beauty, waterways, parks and buildings.  We checked into our hotel and left our bags before heading out for a better look.

First stop, Riddarholmen Island where the 14th century Riddarholmen church and a few old administrative buildings reside.  Next, we made our way towards the Stockholm Royal Palace, Helgeandsholmen and the Royal Opera House. After that, we meandered our way around the narrow cobbled streets in Gamla Stan until we got ourselves cold and tired before deciding to try out this quaint hot chocolate shop in Stortorget.

We met up with our friends Andrea & Gord, who were also at the wedding, and had a nice meal at a restaurant called Nalen with them. After dinner, we went around Kulturhuset and took some night shots of the city before heading back to the hotel.  We played “fake” poker until wee hours in the morning :)   Wish I had enough energy and stamina to stay up all night though, especially since I won’t see A & G for another while.  Miss you guys already!

We’re back from a magical 9 days in beautiful Greece! It’s our long holiday for the year and words can’t really describe how great it was. Also, here’s a tip. We went in early June, which is a great time to go. It’s just before the peak season (so not too many people crowding the streets and attractions) and it’s not too warm either (average temperatures in the 20s, Celsius of course not Fahrenheit). It was also sunny every single day! But that’s just the way Greece is so we’re told.

We’ve always wanted to visit Santorini – Mimi because of quality Angelina Jolie movies like Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life and me because of all the postcards and pictures I’ve seen (OK OK, so it was the other way around but saying it this way gets me in less trouble). Put it this way, Santorini is now our number 1 holiday destination amongst the places we’ve been (and we’ve been to quite a few). The pictures and movies don’t do the place justice.

The main reason for the trip was actually to spend time on Santorini. We decided to spend some time in Athens as well because the flights we picked had stopovers in Athens so we figured we might as well. That said, we didn’t regret including Athens as part of the trip. It’s historically one of the most important places in the world.

Day 1 – Yassas (Hello in Greek)

As most people try to do with these things, we went for the cheapest possible option we could find with the flights. We ended up flying Olympic Airlines departing Heathrow airport at 10pm in the evening. This meant that we arrived in Athens at around 4am and had to hang around Athens airport for about 2 hours to get on our connecting flight to Thira (Santorini’s airport). This was not too bad. Some of the shops were open and Athens airport is actually quite nice (thanks to the 2004 Olympics and the work they had to do in preparation for it). We had breakfast at the airport and I had my first Greek pastry of the trip. It was a Bougatsa from some airport cafe. Mimi had something a little more boring and non-Greek (which is why I can’t remember what it was) and of course we both had coffee (not Greek coffee though).

We eventually boarded our flight around 6am and were filled with excitement. We could finally see in person all those wonderful scenic images we saw in that Tomb Raider movie (I’m referring to the non-Angelina Jolie wearing really right clothing images of course). In fact, we saw the movie on TV again the other night and found that we recognised a few of the locations, in particular the place we sat to watch the sunset over Oia (they held a Greek wedding there in the movie). More about this later.

As we cruised along, we eventually came upon a bunch of islands. “Is that Santorini? Or that one? What about that one?” It didn’t matter really because they all looked great. Then an announcement was made by the captain. We thought it was to inform us that we were about to land and to buckle up. Instead, the captain informed us that Santorini’s airport was closed and we would have to find a temporary alternative to land for the moment. Disappointing, but it was only a small snag. We weren’t going to let some silly airport closure derail our holiday. They never did tell us why the airport was closed at the time.

We eventually landed at some unknown place and they loaded us all onto a bus and sent us to the terminal. I remember thinking “this looks kinda familiar, surely they didn’t.” Back in the terminal, they proceeded to hand us back our boarding passes so we could use them to board the plane again whenever Santorini decided to open the airport. One Japanese tourist asked the staff where we were. Her answer, “oh we’re back in Athens”. Most of the passengers reacted the same way. “What the heck?!?! We flew almost to Santorini and then now we’re back in Athens?!”. Luckily Santorini is actually not a long flight out…about half an hour in the air. So no biggie I thought. It was just surprising. So we sat around the airport bored again and hoping they would let us get on with our holiday ASAP.

I was almost going to get up and go buy us a coffee when they finally announced they would let us back on the plane because Santorini airport was now open. So we hopped back on, got on the plane and crossed our fingers that the airport would stay open. This time around, we did actually land in Santorini. It was about 3 hours later than we were expecting, but no matter. I felt worse for our driver (our hotel had arranged for one) who had to wait around for about 4 hours. The weather was wonderful. The temperature was perfect. We had nothing to complain about despite our slight delay.

The drive to the hotel was interesting. It was a mixture of locals and tourism related places all intermingled amongst one another. Santorini is still very rural in many ways, but the tourism industry has forced a lot of built-for-purpose establishments to serve the demand – the old mixed in with the new. We also drove through Fira, which is the main town on Santorini. Tourism is king in Fira. Nothing but cafes, restaurants, shops and hotels. There are still locals amongst it all, but they are there mainly to serve the tourism industry. Don’t get me wrong, Fira is still wonderfully picturesque and pretty but Santorini’s main industry is tourism so you have to bear that in mind.

We eventually reached our hotel, which was not in either of the 2 main towns (Fira and Oia) on Santorini. It was situated somewhere between (a little closer to Fira) in Imerovigli. The location was a little bit out of the way in terms of the hustle and bustle of Fira, but that’s what we were going for. And as we found out later, Fira is about a half hour walk from Imerovigli so it wasn’t that much of a big deal. Imerovigli itself has some shops, cafes and restaurants so it wasn’t as if we were located in the middle of nowhere. I like to think of it as a nice balance. It was actually VERY peaceful and VERY quiet. I suppose being there during the off-peak season helped.

Alright Ian, get to the point. Where the heck did you stay?! We stayed at the Anastasis Apartments. As seems to be the norm in Santorini, the owner runs the place. We were greeted to a very warm, homely welcome by the owner Despina, her husband and Katerina (who helps her run the place). They made us feel at home and I think it’s safe to say we’ve never had a better welcome at any commercial establishment we’ve been to. This place wins hands down and there is no close 2nd place that I can think of in our travels. We actually picked the Anastasis Aparments because they are the number 1 rated hotel on Santorini on TripAdvisor when we checked (I usually have a look at reviews on TripAdvisor before we book anything just to help ensure we don’t get a dud place to stay and it’s served us well thus far).

They took us to the hotel’s common room where Despina and Katerina sat us down and proceeded to give us advice on the things we could do, places to visit and restaurants to eat at (and to avoid). After this, they brought us some cakes to eat and a traditional Greek breakfast (all this was complimentary by the way) of yogurt, honey, home made marmalade (made by Despina’s mum) and muesli. Greek coffee accompanied this of course (although this was the last time they served us Greek coffee thanks to Mimi’s face when she first drank it – Despina gave us filtered coffee each subsequent time through the stay). This was the view from the table (for all photos in this post, click for a larger image)…

Needless to say, we sat there for some time. We eventually decided to go have a look at our room, which they were getting ready for us when we arrived (we got there in the morning so the room wasn’t ready yet). On they way there, our jaws dropped and we couldn’t help but stand and stare at this…

After picking our jaws off the ground, we walked around the corner to our room. We had booked one of their Superior apartments (in fact, I think it’s actually the one in picture on the website) and this was the view out from our room…

Needless to say, at this point we were more than impressed with Santorini in general. We took an hour or so to rest and just enjoy the place before deciding that we should actually do something. Most of the hotel guests were happy to laze by the pool all the time (and why wouldn’t you), but it was our first day. We decided to take a walk to Fira town.  There is actually a walking track in Santorini that links all the main towns and this happens to be right beside the hotel. So that’s what we did: we took the walking track to Fira. Instead of describing the walk in words, here are some pictures…

There were lots more pictures (Mimi went a little nuts with photos on this trip – we averaged 200 shots per day), but we don’t have that much space here. At some point in time (not sure when because we were too busy taking in the views), we knew we were almost at Fira because we saw this…

That’s Fira in the distance and Firostefani in the foreground. We reached Fira about 15 minutes later…

The 2nd shot is a view of the Caldera from Fira. You might notice the ship. There were quite a few of them each day because almost all Mediterranean cruises stop at Santorini. We spent the afternoon lazing around Fira window shopping and eating ice cream (can’t think of many better ways to spend an afternoon). When we got hungry (even after the ice cream), we decided to walk back to the hotel. Katerina had recommended one of the restaurants with a view of the Caldera in Firostefani (called “The Flame”) so that’s where we stopped on the walk back. Here’s what we had and the accompanying view during dinner…

Doesn’t get a lot better than this, we thought. Full of food and in wonderous amazement at where we actually were, we decided to take the slow stroll back to Imerovigli at dusk…

To top it all off, here’s the view from outside our room when we got back…

Day 1 was magical, but it would only get better.

Day 2 – Oia

We woke up a little bit late the next day. It wasn’t until about 1pm when we thought we should probably get out and about, especially when we had this waiting for us outside our room (no the cakes and coffee weren’t sitting there all morning – they only brought it to us after we woke up)…

We decided to take a walk to Oia and headed off straight after breakfast (even though it was already lunchtime). It was a little longer than we expected (2-3 hours), but the views on the way were worth it.

The above pictures were taken in chronological order. The 3rd one was taken the moment we could see Oia in the distance. Upon reaching Oia, it was…well I can’t do it justice. It was even better than what you see in the postcards so I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking.

Here’s one of the many churches in Oia…

As we wandered around the narrow, but very pretty streets of Oia, we noticed there were a heck of a lot less people compared to the crowd in Fira. There were also a lot more dogs lazing around (there seemed to be more cats in Fira). We even saw a wedding procession (and later saw them taking pictures around the town – you can’t really go wrong no matter where you pick to take your wedding shots in Oia). Here’s a shot back towards one section of Oia as we were walking around…

Eventually, we got to a lookout which had an amazing view of Oia and the rest of Santorini. For those that remember the scene in Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life where they filmed a wedding reception taking place (just before an “earthquake”), this lookout was the location of that reception. We also notice a fair number of people sitting around. It took us a moment to realise this was one of the places where you could get a view of the horizon, the sunset AND Oia at the same time. Here’s a shot back towards another part of Oia from the lookout…

We were actually early. It was around 6 or 7 pm and the sun wasn’t going to be setting until around 8:30. But we were tired from our long walk, so we thought we’d get ourselves a good spot and wait it out. It was the most peaceful, relaxing and wonderous hour and a half of the trip. We watched the lookout fill up with people, like a time lapse video in slow motion. We waited some more, everyone having a great time, lots of fun and most of all contented, happy and grateful that they were sharing the experience with loved ones. Sitting there, we could feel the images being engraved slowly onto the canvas of our long term memory. Worries are non-existent and you are thankful for being able to share it with your better half. We could have waited forever and it wouldn’t have mattered. It wasn’t just a visual experience. All senses are acutely heightened and absorb the surroundings. Emotions and dreams blend with tangible senses to achieve an experience like no other. I’m not a proponent of Zen-like states, but I would imagine this is what it feels like. So we waited, in subconscious meditation…and boy was it worth the wait…

The picture doesn’t do the experience justice, nor do my feeble attempts at stringing sentences together. This is one case where the picture only tells ten words when it needs to be telling a million.

Once the sun had set into the sea, we decided to take the advice of our hosts at the hotel and look for the fantastic seafood restaurant they raved about in Oia called “Dimitri’s”. The restaurant isn’t in the main town of Oia itself. It’s located by the sea, which can be reached via the road or a set of stairs. We took the stairs and about halfway down, spotted where we were headed.

It was dusk by the time we found the restaurant. Unfortunately, we weren’t the only ones who knew it was a good restaurant. All the adjacent restaurants were almost empty. Dimitri’s however, was full and we had to wait for a table. This was the wait of all waits (in a good way) because this was the view…

Roughly 15 minutes later, we were eventually seated at our table and had a wonderful, fresh meal. This was also where we discovered Saganaki (fried cheese). We would proceed to go around trying the Saganaki at every restaurant we ate at for the rest of the trip. My gut will never forgive me but I didn’t care at the time. Mmmm….Saganaki.

Oh, Mimi likes fried calamari so we had some too. It tasted like the sea. We had a whole fish and Greek salad as our mains. I didn’t care much for the salad, but that shouldn’t surprise anyone who knows me.

Satisfied with our glorious meal, we had the restaurant call us a cab (who drove like a madman) and headed back to the hotel. Even though we probably needed the 2-3 hour walk back, we weren’t exactly in the mood :-)

Day 3 – Chill-out day

We didn’t do much on this day, but it was our plan all along. Too many times, people go on holiday only to need a holiday from the holiday when they get back. Santorini lends itself to unwinding and relaxing. If you can’t relax in Santorini, you won’t be able to relax anywhere.

We went to lunch at a restaurant in the main part of Imerovigli (had Saganaki again of course, but not as good as Dimitri’s) with this view…

After lunch, we walked over to a Cafe and had Greek iced coffee. Very nice, but very sweet. Then it was back to the hotel where we spent the rest of the day doing this…

The view of the sunset from the hotel wasn’t to shabby either. This picture was taken from the front door of our room…

Day 4 – Volcano and Jacuzzi

We’d been debating whether to bother heading out to the centre of the volcano (the caldera is actually the crater of the volcano), which was a short boat trip from Fira port. There are other tours that include the volcano cruise, soak at the hot spring and a sunset cruise. But Katerina had warned us that it wasn’t good value to do everything and that we should just do the volcano cruise if we wanted to get out there. We eventually decided to because we’d already spent the previous day relaxing by the pool. But most of all, we were looking forward to the Jacuzzi in the evening. The hotel allows each guest couple exclusive use of the hotel’s jacuzzi for an hour as part of the stay. This hour has to be booked in advance and ours was in the evening on this day. We’d also picked a time slot very close to sunset so had high expectations.

We decided to walk to Fira again because we wanted to have breakfast there and thought the walk would work up a good appetite (no Saganaki available for breakfast much to our disappointment). We eventually arrived and went straight to one of the outlets to buy boat tickets for the volcano. Apparently the price is regulated so the cost is the same no matter where the tickets are purchased from. Fira port is obviously by the sea, so to get there we could have either walked down a set of winding stairs or pay for the cable car ride. We picked the cable car because the stairs smelled like donkey poo (there are a bunch of old guys at the bottom charging people for donkey rides up the stairs back to Fira town).

Here’s another nice looking church we found on one of the back streets in Fira…

The view back towards Fira from the boat were spectacular, as with everything else on Santorini…

When we got to the centre of the volcano, we were surprised to find that there was a guy collecting money for entry. We were somewhat surprised because no one had told us about it. We had assumed the boat tickets included entry. It wasn’t that expensive (a couple of Euros from memory), but it didn’t exactly fill us with a sense of warmth. We weren’t going to let this spoil our day so we paid and walked on. And walked…and walked some more. Here’s a picture…

One is enough because everything pretty much looked like this (not always with the flowers). To be blunt, it was just a bunch of volcanic rocks. It was still nice, but this was thanks to the views of Santorini itself. So if you ever visit, you can skip the trip out to the centre of the volcano. Spend your time doing other things…like relaxing by the pool.

We had lunch at a great place in Fira itself. Katerina had recommended a local restaurant she said all the locals ate at called “Taverna Nikolas”, which has no menu. They have daily specials read out by the waiter depending on the fresh ingredients brought in that day. Again, Katerina’s recommendation was spot on. It was home-style, authentic, comfort food. More than satisfied with our lunch, we walked around Fira once again just to ensure we covered all of it (which we didn’t have time to on the first day) and then walked back to the hotel.

The afternoon was spent by the pool again (and in the pool) in anticipation of the hour in the jacuzzi. When we got there, this awaited us….

Which is exactly where we stayed with our champagne (courtesy of Despina)…

Through to sunset…

It was very special, which is actually an understatement.

We had rented a car for around 30 Euros so we could drive around the next day. The other reason was that we needed to get to the airport and calling a cab would have cost almost as much. The rental company had just dropped the car off at the hotel for us in the early evening so we decided to make use of it by going out for dinner. One of Katerina’s restaurant recommendations was Toy Nikoy, a 5-10 minute drive down the road from the hotel, so that’s where we went. Upon arrival we weren’t sure it was open as it was completely empty. Then a waiter appeared out of nowhere and ushered us in. We were wondering what we were getting ourselves into and seriously worried, but it was too late. We’ve never walked into an empty restaurant (and with good reason) so this was a first. Had Katerina steered us wrong this time? Luckily, she hadn’t. The food was not bad at all. The restaurant was simply suffering from the fact it wasn’t peak holiday season and that they are located in the middle of nowhere (you really need a car to get to the restaurant). Saganaki was ordered as an entrée yet again of course. And there we were, in our own private restaurant being waited on exclusively to cap off another unique Santorini day.

Day 5 – Driving around

Our last day in Santorini :-(

So, we took advantage of the fact we had a car and decided to visit a few of the beaches. Santorini isn’t known for its beaches, but they aren’t too shabby. After driving and getting somewhat lost, we arrived at the Red Beach in Akrotiri. We didn’t actually walk down to the beach but we did take this picture.

Off we went again, this time trying to find Kamari Beach, known for its black sand.

We ended up having lunch by Kamari where the waiter convinced us (well, me actually) to order their Lobster pasta. It wasn’t cheap but it was very tasty and the Lobster was fresh. I figured we could given it was our last day (for now) in Santorini and we should enjoy ourselves. What about Saganaki you ask? Of course! It was the entrée.

The afternoon was spent walking around Oia again (we loved it so much the first time we had to go back again). We were also on the lookout for a souvenir, hand-painted bottle with an image of Santorini. We had seen quite a few during our first visit to Oia so we thought it was a good idea. We eventually found the one for us and snapped it up (an olive oil bottle currently sitting in our kitchen). I don’t usually like buying souvenirs (as Mimi can attest to) because I’ve seen way too many just put aside, hidden in cupboards or thrown away. My view is that the photos ARE the souvenirs. This time around however, I relented. It’s a VERY nice olive oil bottle.

Our time in Santorini was almost up. We took a few more happy snaps around Oia (almost empty on this day for some reason so we got some great shots with no one else in the picture) and drove to the airport. I should mention that returning a rental car on Santorini is done in a rather interesting manner. As someone who has rented many cars (thanks to my many work-related trips), this was even more peculiar. They told us to park the car in the airport car park and leave the keys under the mat. Not only were we to do this, but the car had to be left unlocked! Then again, Santorini is such a small place that if someone steals a car it isn’t too difficult to find it again. We can attest to this fact as we had basically driven around the whole island and certainly covered the coastline.

Next stop, Athens.

Day 6 – First full day in Athens

Santorini is a difficult destination to top for spectacular views. But Athens is equally difficult to top from a historical standpoint. With our thoughts still on Santorini, we awoke a little bit later than we wanted and just made it in time for the hotel breakfast. It’s a good thing we did because this was the view…

If you’re scratching your head, that’s the Parthenon in the distance. After breakfast, we strolled on over to the Acropolis to have a closer look. We passed all the historical bits and pieces at the foot of the Acropolis. Here’s a sampling (with descriptions)…

On the way up to the Parthenon, it’s a little difficult to miss the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, where they still hold live performances today…

Some scaffolding holding up part of the structure. Much of Athens is an archaeological site and a lot of the structures are being restored…

View of the Temple of Olympian Zeus from the Parthenon. Our hotel is across the road from it so this is the reverse of the breakfast photo…

Here part of the Ancient Agora of Athens at the base of the Acropolis…

Here’s the Stoa of Attalos within the Agora where they showcase a bunch of ancient artifacts…

We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Monastiraki, Kerameikos and Plaka, where we came across yet another Starbucks…

Of course, we didn’t stop. We figured we should stick to Greek coffee (or taking a sip of mine in Mimi’s case). We had lunch at some random place in Plaka where the food was edible but not fantastic. We didn’t have the benefit of Katerina’s advice like in Santorini. After lunch, we walked around Plaka a little more and then headed across the road to Hadrian’s Arch

Right next to Hadrian’s Arch is the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which we saw from the Parthenon earlier in the day…

Of course, both of these are directly across the road from our hotel

We then headed up to road to Syntagma Square to take a look at the Greek Parliament building where we managed to catch the changing of the guard (which immediately reminded me of John Cleese and his silly walk)…

For dinner, we headed back to Plaka. Luckily, Mimi had done some research and we found ourselves at Taverna Platanos, one of the oldest establishments in Athens. It wasn’t the easiest place to find, but well worth the effort. Great value, great tasting comfort food again. The meat just melted in our mouths. By the end of dinner, we were done walking. Luckily our hotel is right next to Plaka (literally) so it was a short walk back to rest up for the next day.

Day 7 – Research day

We noticed some interesting looking buildings from the Parthenon the previous day. These turned out to be the National Observatory of Athens and the Pnyx. We decided to try walking to them for a closer look but stopped by the new Acropolis Museum on the way. It wasn’t open yet, but they were allowing people a preliminary look around the ground level. There were some exposed excavation areas as well and it looks like it’s going to be a very nice place when completed.

It was a bit of a walk, but we eventually reached the Pnyx.

There were a bunch of chairs set up and a podium with the Olympic rings clearly displayed. We guessed that they had set it up for some ceremonial thing related to the upcoming Beijing Olympics but never found out if it was. We did walk to the observatory, but didn’t bother taking a closer look because there was a film crew there and we didn’t feel like becoming extras on Greek TV :-)

We were looking into the possibility of taking a day trip to Delphi the next day and one option was the day tour costing 90 Euros. The other option was to do it ourselves by taking a bus, which was by far the cheaper option. We decided to follow the instructions we found online in advance in the event we got hopelessly lost the next day (and missed out on the opportunity to get to Delphi). It’s a 3 hour bus ride so we didn’t want to take a chance. Basically if it was too difficult we were going to go for the tour.

The instructions said that the bus terminal was located at 260 Liosion Street. We had asked the hotel front desk and they said we could walk there from Larissa metro station. So away we went, getting off at Larissa station. We found our way to Liosion Street and started walking, albeit in the wrong direction for about 5 minutes. Luckily, we realised this and turned around. We walked…and we walked….and walked. Some of the neighbourhoods we walked through were downright dodgy but Liosion Street is fairly busy so we weren’t too worried. We kept walking, until eventually we reached Attiki metro station. We said to ourselves: “Attiki metro station? What?!” We had reached the next metro station (it took us almost half an hour) and we were still nowhere near 260 Liosion Street. To make things a little more interesting, there was a crazy lady at Attiki cursing everyone she could get near and spitting down at people walking up the stairs from the metro station itself. She was kicking the back of each bus that went by as well. At this point, we thought to ourselves that we’d done enough “research” into the Delphi thing. I really wanted to just take the day tour but Mimi convinced me that we should show up at Attiki station the next day and hop on a bus. As long as it was a bus headed down Liosion, we would be fine. We could just get off when we saw the bus station. I agreed.

We planned to spend the afternoon in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, which holds a lot of Greece’s (and the world’s) history in it. Back on the metro we got, from Attiki to Omonia station. The museum isn’t in a very convenient location if you want to take the metro – Omonia is the closest. It was roughly a 20 minute walk but we got there eventually…

As she does in most museums, Mimi took lots of photos of artifacts. I’m not normally the type to be impressed with museums, but this place had lots of cool stuff (my personal favourite was the Antikythera mechanism). I won’t put the pictures here because we’ll run out of storage space :-)

After a couple of hours in the museum, we decided to do some shopping and headed for Attica, the largest department store in Athens. We did make a detour via Kolonaki because I wanted to take a look at the “trendy” part of Athens. It was quite a nice area to have a meal, meet up with friends or just hang around. Attica was just like any other large department store. To Mimi’s credit, she didn’t buy a single thing.

On the way back to the hotel and just round the corner from Attica, we found this…

It was a workout session (I think it was a spin class) in an open public area that was drawing a crowd. The loud music had a lot to do with it, but I suppose the participants in skin-tight gym clothes might have helped to keep the crowd there.

Day 8 – Delphi

We set out pretty early thanks to the previous day’s adventure. This time, we took the metro to Attiki and got on a bus along Liosion Street. The problem on the bus was that we had no idea where to get off. We thought it would be easy however. After all, a bus terminal should stand out – or so we thought. Along the bus went. 5 minutes later, still no number 260. The numbers were still smaller than 260 so we thought we were ok. 10 minutes later and we were getting closer. The next moment, I saw 270. 270?!?! Where was the frigging bus station? So we got off at the next opportunity and walked backwards. Walking…walking…walking. Still no bus terminal. And then we saw it…260 Liosion Street. It was…wait for it…a tyre shop! Now we were REALLY confused, but we didn’t give up. We walked up a little and looked down every perpendicular street until lo and behold, we saw what looked like a large terminal. Power-walking up the street, we had our fingers crossed hoping this was it. Thankfully, it was and we breathed a collective sigh of relief. For the record, the bus ticket was around 10 Euros per person each way. Quite reasonable for a 3 hour trip, and MUCH cheaper than the 90 Euros for the tour.

The bus trip wasn’t the most pleasant one I’ve ever been on. The bus driver kept turning the air conditioning off until it got unbearably hot, at which point he’d turn it back on until it got bearably hot and would turn it off again. There were a couple of stops along the way, including a toilet break at some motel in the middle of nowhere. Three very warm hours later, we were finally in Delphi…

Dephi was considered the centre of the earth and universe in ancient Greece and the landscape is certainly fitting. Of course, not being on an organised tour meant we had to figure out how to get around. We eventually found our way to the main street in Delphi and kept walking. The main thing Mimi wanted to see in Delphi was the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia…

It was a fair walk there and we were worried about not having enough time as we’d bought tickets for the 4pm bus back to Athens. We also walked around the ancient Gymnasium right beside the Sanctuary. On the way back to the bus terminal, we stopped briefly outside the Delphi Museum which is at the base of the main archaeological site in Delphi which houses the Temple of Apollo…


Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to take a look but my logic was that we’d seen enough archaeological sites and museum artifacts so we weren’t missing much :-)

Here’s the bus terminal in Delphi…

Not quite as obvious as your typical bus terminal, but then again neither was the one in Athens.

Back in Athens, we had dinner at a place round the corner from our hotel that was apparently recommended by the Lonely Planet guide book, or so the waiter told us. It looked decent enough, so we sat down. Of course, we ordered Saganaki again, which was pretty good. I also had some Greek beer (Mythos) to add to the whole experience. After dinner, we decided to take a walk around the area to walk off dinner and to take some night shots. Here’s a sample.

It was 1am before we decided to head back to the hotel. It was after all, the last day of our Greek holiday and we wanted to soak it all in.

Day 9 – Back to London

Our flight wasn’t too early so we woke up late, but still in time for breakfast. We took it easy on purpose just to unwind from the previous day. It was a great trip, one we will never forget. Santorini and Athens were each wonderful in their own way. But Santorini was magical and will take some serious beating.

By the way, does anyone know where we can find good Saganaki in London? :-)

You guessed it. Edinburgh. Well known for their annual Edinburgh Festival in early August with events such as the International Festival, Edinburgh Military Tattoo, International Film Festival plus many more. Some travel guides refer to the Old Town of Edinburgh as “Athens of the North” for its similarity with the Athens’ Acropolis in its topography and intellectual history. Both the Old Town and New Town districts of Edinburgh were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.

We took a 3 hour train ride and arrived at Waverley Railway station in Edinburgh around mid-day with beautiful blue sky weather. At first glance, Edinburgh looks like just a city. As we walked further along Waterloo Place and Princes Street, streets were more grid-like and the buildings became more picturesque with Georgian architectures. We met up with our friends Grace & Jackie at the National Gallery of Scotland and saw some classical paintings. Afterwards we walked through St. Andrew Square garden and Multrees Walk and made our way to a cafe upstairs of John Lewis department store to satisfy Grace’s craving for scones. The cherry scones were not bad at all. For the afternoon, we walked along Princes Street and eventually arrived at the Victorian/Gothic-looking Scott Monument which is a monument built in 1844 for Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. It was actually our friend’s birthday, we celebrated the special day with delicious seafood dinner at the Mussel Inn :) We discovered there was a Wii console downstairs next to the hotel lobby. So after a drink, we played Wii until the wee hours of the morning. My eyes were barely opened, my reason for missing those baseball shots :P

Next morning we had an early start to visit the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle. On the way to breakfast, I contemplated and mentally prepared myself to try the famous Scottish ‘delicacy’ – Haggis, perhaps with neeps & tatties, which are cooked turnips & potatoes. Only thing is when I saw the black pieces on the plate and I then thought about its ingredients, I changed my mind and went for the slightly healthier option instead :)

There were plenty of high rise buildings within the picturesque Old Town, many of these were residential buildings built in 16th century due to space restrictions within the area. We walked our way along the Royal Mile, past many souvenir shops selling whiskey bottles, scarves, tartan kilts, tartan dresses, lots and lots of tartan!

Edinburgh Castle is definitely worth a visit. The castle was built atop the Castle Rock, plug of an extinct volcano.

The view was fantastic and museums were great for learning about Scottish history and culture.

There were a few highlights including the Royal Palace, Crown Room (where Stone of Destiny is displayed), Great Hall, National War Memorial, Queen Anne building, National War Museum of Scotland, St. Margaret’s Chapel, Mons Meg and the Garrison Fortress.

Below is a video of the One O’Clock Gun, traditionally used for checking watches and clocks.

Hope everyone had a Happy Easter!

We must admit that we have been slacking on posts, it seems like a while since our last entry. Happy to tell you that veggieleaf is on the move again! On the Easter weekend, wind took us to Paris.

We had an early 5am start on Easter Friday morning. With caffeine fix in our hands, we hopped onto the 7am train at St Pancras International station. As it turned out, our ticket actually included breakfast. Their coffee was so strong, by the end of the 3 hour train ride, I was really feeling the coffee buzz.

We arrived around 10:30am at Gare du Nord station. After we picked up a local map from the Information booth and purchased the 4-day Paris Musuem Pass, which is a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and in most cases queues for these passes are shorter! We then caught the Metro to Porte Malliot station and checked into our hotel to drop off our overnight bags before heading out for a wander.

Our first stop was Arc de Triomphe, the famous arch was built to commemorate those who fought in the Napoleon wars. We climbed 200+ stairs to the top and the view from the top was great despite the rain and strong winds. Next we walked along Champs-Élysées for a bit, we couldn’t help but noticed that in the short period of 30 minutes, the rain had stopped and clouds started to clear. It was perfect timing as we ended up at a really nice spot with that postcard view of the Eiffel Tower. From there, it was a 15-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. Only the first and second levels of the Eiffel Tower were opened due to the strong winds. The panoramic view was clear and amazing.

Arc de TriompheChamps-Élysées from Arc de TriompheEiffel TowerView from Eiffel TowerView of Jardin de TuileriesView of Seine River

We bought freshly-made crepes with Nutella from one of the many snack stores around the Eiffel Tower and ate the hot crepes while strolling along the Seine River. Along the way we walked past a mini car-show then the Grand Palace (which is now a museum) and Les Invalides (where Napoleon Bonaparte’s tomb lies). We crossed the Place de la Concorde and headed towards the Louvre museum via a nice park called Jardin de Tuileries. Inside the park, we found a huge spider on the lawn… literally. This happened to be the Louise Bourgeois’ Giant Spider which I vividly remember seeing outside London’s Tate Modern museum earlier in January. I hate spiders! It was around 5pm when we arrived at the Louvre museum and we still had to queue. Little did we realise how exhausted we were from the day’s walking, we only managed to see one painting – Mona Lisa, before calling it a day.

Les InvalidesSpider in Jardin-de-TuileriesMona Lisa

On Saturday we went back to the Louvre museum to see it properly. We managed to spend a good 4 hours there and saw what we wanted to see. Next stop was the Notre Dame de Paris. We barely had time to find our umbrellas from my bag when it started pouring cats & dogs and suddenly it changed to snow then switched back to rain again after 5 minutes. By the time we reached Notre Dame, it was clear again! And all this time I had thought weather in London was bad!

Notre DameInside Notre Dame

On Sunday we went to visit the Versailles (or Chateau de Versailles). We went by the RER regional train from Neuilly Porte-Melliot, changed at Champ du Mars Tour Eiffel before catching another train to Versailles Rive Gauche station.

Queues outside VersaillesEntrance of VersaillesBeautiful gardensAmazing architectureHall of MirrorsIntricate sculptures

On our way back, we got off at Champ du Mars Tour Eiffel and walked directly to Musee de Orsay to spend the rest of the afternoon. Here are a few photos Ian took which were focused :)
Painting 1Painting 2Painting 3

On Monday, we were going to do a bit of window shopping. To Ian’s relief, it was a public holiday, most shops were closed. Coincidentally as I was going through the tourist guide to work out our next stop, Ian suddenly got really excited when he spotted Laduree on the directory. So we gave up shopping and decided to go there for lunch instead.

Lunch was nice. Ian had a club sandwich (boring) while the salad I had was fantastic. For dessert, Ian had a deliciously smooth dark chocolate mousse cake. I had chestnut ice cream with bits of candied chestnuts which were quite sweet. In fact it was sweeter than my coffee with 2½ sugars so you can imagine how sweet it really was.

Ian’s club sandwichMy saladDesserts…mmm

We made a few more photo stops, including the Paris Opera House (or L’Opéra), Moulin Rouge with the infamous windmill and the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur before we headed towards Gard du Nord to catch the train back to London.

Paris Opera HouseMoulin RougeStrange place for a petrol stationSacré-CœurSacré-Cœur viewsMore Sacré-Cœur views

On another note, my parents are here for a few weeks. They are currently in Rome. In the blink of an eye, two and a half weeks had come and passed already. I can’t believe it’s nearly time for them to leave. Wish we had done more sightseeing together but really happy with the time we spent together plus all the goodies they brought with them, some including Tim Tams and Aunty Nellie’s home-made almond crescent cookies!

Christmas Markets. Seems to be the thing to do this time of year, especially if you are in Europe and want to have the “whole experience” of living here. Unfortunately, there aren’t many in London that are reputed to be as good as the ones in other parts of Europe.

So in the true spirit of the season, Mimi and a few friends have been debating over which city to visit for the markets. They eventually decided on Cologne in Germany and that is where we spent the past weekend (December 8-9 2007). So it was with Anita, Maheshni and Andrew that we made this trip. Aarti and Seth were supposed to show up too but couldn’t get a flight from Birmingham…or something like that. Aarti’s always full of excuses :)

As usual, we took a flight from Stansted airport on Ryanair, but as with most budget airlines, we didn’t fly straight to our destination. We flew into Weeze airport, which Ryanair seems to be turning into another hub in Europe for its planes. In fact, it doesn’t seem like any other airline flies into Weeze other than Ryanair. Weeze is about 100 kms north of Cologne so we had to figure out how to get there. Luckily the information counter was helpful and told us to take the bus to Weeze train station. From there it was an hour train to Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof and then a change to get the train to Köln Hauptbahnhof (Cologne’s main train station), which took roughly another hour. We didn’t get to Cologne until about 4pm in the afternoon, so the journey from “door to door” actually took almost 10 hours. That’s the problem with flying budget airlines. The cost of the journey ends up being much more than you predicted even if the plane tickets are cheap…mainly because it takes so long to get to the departure airport and from the arrival airport to the destination. And the return journey is almost always just as arduous.

Thankfully, we got to our destination and luckily all the main attractions in Cologne are quite central. We didn’t really have much time left on the Saturday so we just spent it walking around the Christmas market beside Cologne Cathedral and another on the Neumarkt.

Cologne Cathedral Christmas MarketChristmas Market treeChristmas Market Gingerbread store

Unfortunately, it was raining and bitterly cold. But that didn’t stop people from being up and around. In fact, there was hardly any room to move around thanks to the hordes of people looking for trinkets, decorations and food. The girls decided to buy themselves funny Christmas hats to keep their heads warm and us guys just stuck to buying food and drinks. Tired and cold, we eventually decided to hop on the Cologne underground to Boltensternstraße. This time around, we went for the budget option and stayed at the Jugendherberge Köln-Riehl City-Hostel for about £13 each.

Sunday was somewhat less hectic. We had a plane to catch in the evening back to London so we intentionally kept it easy. We spent the morning at the Römisch-Germanisches Museum which contains information and artifacts about the history of Cologne. We then took a stroll along the river to the Chocolate Museum. In addition to all the stuff relating to chocolate history and processes, there was also a fully functional chocolate factory making Lindt chocolate.

Truffle conveyor belt

…including a line to have a tasting of the chocolate flowing off the chocolate fountain, Plenty of fun for the little kids and us big kids too. I should note that I didn’t queue…but the others did :)

Chocolate Fountain

Anita and Mimi managed to get some quality time in the chocolate store before we left. If ever there was an occasion for the use of the phrase “kids in a candy store,” this was it. To be fair, there was quite a lot of variety and interesting flavours that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else.

In the short amount of time we had left, we stopped by the inside of Cologne Cathedral to take a look. Quite a nice, grand looking place…but not unlike many of the Gothic cathedrals we’ve seen around Europe.

Cologne CathedralInside Cologne Cathedral

Luckily for us, there was actually a direct bus back to Weeze airport from Cologne train station so we didn’t have to go through the pain of changing trains and trying to figure out how to get from Weeze train station to the airport. The same bus actually runs from Weeze airport to Cologne, but at the time we arrived on Saturday, we would have had to wait about 3 hours so we didn’t bother waiting.

Mimi can attest to the amount of complaining I did about this particular trip. My “beef” mainly had to do with the ordeal we had to go through in getting to Cologne. I couldn’t understand why we didn’t just fly straight there. I suppose our wallets are a little better off doing it this way, but sometimes I wonder if it’s worth it. That aside, it was actually a really nice weekend away. If you want to experience the real Christmas atmosphere around the holiday season, any of the well known Christmas Markets are a good bet.

For those who wondered why we haven’t been checking our emails second half of last week, it was because we were in Spain. Ian had to go to Seville for work and he had a brilliant idea of staying there til Saturday night. I hesitated at first thinking that I really should be job searching rather than spending my savings but fond memories of Seville came straight into my mind – flamenco dancing, eating tapas, chocolate con churros and oh did I mention shopping? The idea of going to Seville suddenly became more appealing and I decided on Tuesday that I would go with Ian Wednesday night. I reckoned I’ve had enough of eating fish balls and egg noodles from the past 3 weeks and cannot bear the thought of eating more by myself.

The city of Seville has really been modernised since my last visit, which was 5 years ago, there are now numerous contemporary buildings and new apartments throughout the city. While roaming around the city, subconsciously I found myself walking along the green bike lanes. I must admit I can be one of those annoying pedestrians whom cyclists have to maneuver around. However, you will be pleased to know that Seville has now put in place these new public bike rental services called Sevici system. It is a fantastic concept and a great way to see the city. We saw many of these bike parking stations all around town.

Seville Sevici Bike System

It costs 10€ for an annual membership or 5€ per week and when you pick up a bike the first half hour is free, the next hour is 50 cents and 1€ per hour thereafter. This also means as long as you can ride to the next station within 30 minutes you could potentially ride for free.

Within Seville, a well-preserved historical centre remains. As I wandered through the narrow cobbled streets, there were many traditional shops selling flamenco dresses, embroidered silk scarves and hand-made jewellery, others were selling ceramic tiles and plates with hand painted designs. This city is fringed with orange trees, much to Ian’s delight :P After weaving through the cobbled streets for some time, I managed to find myself at the beautiful Cathedral of Seville. It is one of the largest medieval and Gothic cathedrals in the world and it used to be an Almohad Mosque. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is also found inside this cathedral. To add to the medieval impression, there are horse-drawn carriages outside the cathedral which take tourists around town for a fee. It was a rather strange contrast to see many of these drivers simultaneously talking on their mobile phones. From across from the Cathedral is the Alcázar which was originally built as a Moorish Palace.

Seville CathedralSeville CathedralNearby churchNarrow streets of SevilleBeautiful architectureHorse drawn carriages

After a quick coffee stop, I decided to walk along the Guadalquivir river. With heavy traffic in the background, I saw the Torre del Oro which was built as a watchtower in the Almohad dynasty then further along the road (Paseo de Christobal Colon) was Teatro de la Maestranza and Seville bullring.

Torre del OroSeville bull ringGuadalquivir RiverStreet of SevilleLogo of Pizza Hut from the ’80s still in use

I managed to accidentally wander into La Campana and then it was shopping all the way through to a famous street called Calle Sierpes (Tracy, if you’re reading this, Catunambu Cafe where we had chocolate con churros is still there!). As it was a weekday, the streets were quite bare except for a few keen tourists. I was also keeping an eye on the time, it was getting close to 2pm which mean siesta time. For those who may not know, siesta is traditionally a nap time which usually occurs between 2-3pm in Spain. From my last visit to Seville, my friend Tracy and I were literally shooed out of a shop because they had to close shop at 2pm on the dot and it was impossible to find anything that was opened. On this trip it was different, most shops stayed opened. And it makes sense. There are now many more international brands (e.g. H&M and at least four to five Zara & Mango shops can be found within Seville) so I guess these stores cannot afford to lose an hour of business everyday. Apparently, siesta is now considered more of a lunch hour commercially.

FansCalle Sierpes

Generally Sevillanos eat pretty late. Breakfast is around 10am, lunch is around 2pm and dinner is commonly around 9pm-10pm. Restaurants are opened til 2am. We arrived late on Wednesday night so conveniently we ate tapas at the restaurant downstairs and very soon it became clear that some waiters can be quite brusque in Seville. Ian’s colleagues recommended 2 good restaurants. On Thursday night, we tried a modern Spanish restaurant called Komo and had 5-course degustation for 32€, the menu was a fusion mixture of Spanish, Mediterranean, Japanese and perhaps Chinese. Produce was really fresh, food tasted great, it was fantastic value. On Friday night we tried a different restaurant on the same street called Novo where food was cooked more traditionally. I really liked their prawn, avocado and green salad in honey vinaigrette dressing with pinenuts.

On Saturday, we put on our walking shoes and prepared ourselves for our own grand walking tour which covered everything I mentioned above plus more :) As we went downstairs to look for breakfast, we made a discovery and found a little shop called Calenteria (on Calle Cano y Cueto) opposite from our hotel that sells the most amazing chocolate con churros! Normally you get only 3-4 churros from a local cafe and usually they are made in advance but at Calenteria for 5€ you get the bagful and the churros are made fresh. Hot chocolate has the consistency that coats the churros just right. We bought some to share and ate them at the tables outside Restaurante el 3 de Oro next door.

Feeling content, we made our way towards Cathedral of Seville, then visited Alcázar, Torre del Oro and the bullring. From Av de la Constitucion, just off Plaza de San Francisco, there was a weekend market with many stalls selling different Christmas decorations. I bought this tiny souvenir to remind me of ‘jamon’ from Spain :)

Jamon

We had lunch at a local cafe on Av de la Constitucion, Ian had what the locals were having and ordered the grilled pork with fried egg and chips and I ordered a paella. After lunch we did a quick detour into the University of Seville (Universidad de Sevilla) and took these photos.

University of SevilleUniversity of SevilleUniversity of Seville

Next we visited the famous Plaza de España which used to be the site of the Spanish pavilion from the 1929 exhibition. Currently this plaza is used as Government buildings and the courtyard is used for exhibitions. Right across the road is the huge garden of Parque María Luisa.

Plaza de EspañaPlaza de EspañaSpanish tile designBarcelona tile designSeville tile designPlaza de España

By the end of our grand walking tour, we were so exhausted we could barely walk back to the hotel. It was especially painful walking on those cobble-stoned paths! Luckily for us, Calenteria was still opened. This time we bought two servings but we chomped it down in no time!

Chocolate con churros

Last week I made an impromptu trip to Croatia with my buddy Andrea :) . Ian has already started work so he could not join us on this trip. He did, however, have something to look forward to because this week he went to Boston. Most of us would think it must be for work as usual, so did I… Until last Sunday night, Ian had a rather stressed look on his face while packing, I asked him ‘What’s the matter?’ and he said ‘How am I going to find time to go outlet shopping?’ …enough said :P

Anyhoo we had a nice breakfast at a Moorish cafe nearby Monday morning before catching the Gatwick Express from Victoria tube station. Queues to airport security took unusually long, not only do we have to do the normal security scan, we now have to take off our shoes and send them through another scan. We had to make a mad rush to the boarding gate and just made it on our 3-hour flight to Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik is an old city located south of Croatia, the Old Town of Dubrovnik is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lucky for us, Croatia Airline runs regular airport shuttles to/from Dubrovnik town centre. We caught one of these buses for 35 kunas. Our hostel was in the Lapad area, which was easily accessible via local buses (#6). After checking in at the hostel, we wandered along the touristy strip (which has lots of restaurants & cafes with romantic swinging chairs) and arrived at the wharf with perfect timing for some sunset snaps. For dinner that night we went to a waterside restaurant, on hostel owner’s recommendation. It was a really nice meal, we had some mixed grills and squid ink risotto served in a shell. Afterwards, we went into Old Town and managed to take some fantastic night pictures (still need to download some photos from Andrea’s camera).

dsc00005a.jpgSquid ink risotto YUM!!Night DubrovnikOnofrio’s Fountain

Next day we went on a day cruise to see the pretty landscapes of Elaphite Islands which consists of 3 islands called Kolocep, Lopud, and Šipan. On Kolocep, it felt like going back to ancient times, just peaceful island life without any traffic. Sipan is the largest and most populated of the Elaphite Islands. Although we didn’t see any vineyards nor olive groves, we did see some remains of stone sculptures, chapels and churches. Our lunch was cooked & served on the boat, we had grilled scampi, fish, bread and salad. Soon after lunch we arrived at Lopud (second largest island of the Elaphite group) where we spent the rest of our afternoon. We walked along the beautiful seaside promenade then took a detour and after 30minutes we found a secluded beach on the other side of the island called Sunj Beach. It was not as nice as I imagined, there was no sun at all!

Kolocep IslandSipan IslandSeagullLopud IslandSunj BeachSunset

Wednesday was a highlight for us :) We did the famous rampart walk around Dubrovnik’s fortress walls. The walk starts near the Pile Gate and it gives the best possible perspective of the Old Town, the tiny corridors, charming terracotta-roofed buildings and various landmarks such as Franciscan Monastery, Onofrio’s Fountain, Bell Tower and Sponza Palace. On the south part of the walk, we even got to see the beautiful Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.

View from City WallPanoramic viewSpotted a knome!Local shopCoastal viewDalmatian coast

That afternoon we caught a 4-hour bus ride to Split, this requires crossing through the Serbian borders. As the bus went on the windy roads, right before I fell asleep, I caught a glimpse of Croatia’s incredible views of the clear Adriatic Sea and the many Croatian islands.

It was around 8pm when we arrived in Split, a city within Central Dalmatia of Croatia. As we got off the bus, we were overwhelmed with lots of people asking whether we wanted accommodation. Very handy I must admit, considering we hadn’t arranged any in advance, but some of them were really pushy. We ended up staying somewhere really close to city centre and had dinner at a local restaurant which served nice fish soup (we liked this so much, we went back again the following night :) ).

Night SplitCathedralWithin the walls of the PalaceWeight naziNot sure what this is…MemorialSplit Riva

We spend the morning wandering around the Diocletian Palace, it used to be a palace/fort built for the retired Roman emperor Diocletian back in the 3rd century AD. It was listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Nowadays there is a museum and many cafes, pubs, souvenir shops and restaurants built within the walls of the palace. Only the basement is kept as is and for 15 kunas we got to see remnants of Roman aqueducts. After a relaxing lunch, eating a not-so-nice baguette at one of the outdoor cafés along the Riva (seafront), we caught a ferry to a nearby island called Brač. Brač is known for its marble and it is used for both Diocletian Palace and Washington D.C. White House.

Church in BračQuaint town of BračSunbakingDuskSunsetting in BračCatching another glimpse of Dalmatian Coast

I really loved the beautiful Dalmatian coast, the islands and fantastic seafood! And to top it off for this trip, I finally got a chance to travel with my dearest friend Andrea. Only wish the weather was warmer so we could have swum & kayaked!

Coming soon!

Watch this space :)

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