food


When Ian told me about a “Gordon Ramsay’s Taste of Christmas” event happening at ExCel, my first thought was that it sounded like a direct competitor to the BBC Good Food Show and it was.

We went yesterday with Jodie and Steve and were pleasantly surprised at the entrance as we walked through a “Christmassy” hall with falling artificial snow, putting us right into the festive mood.  We had booked tickets to see Gordon Ramsay’s first cooking show of the day.  The demonstration hall was like an amphitheatre; it was quite packed out and we got seats in the second row :)   The show started with an entertaining bloke who looked a lot like Peter Hellier (but it wasn’t obviously), followed by Mark Sargeant (Head Chef at Claridge’s) and finally Gordon Ramsay showed up energetically in the midst of the crowd.  Gordon threw eight inflatable giant “Christmas puddings” at the audience and eight lucky people got to go on stage to sample a parsnip-celery-apple creamy soup, panfried duck breast with caramelised endive and brussel sprouts sprinkled with crushed chestnuts; and a pear and frangipane tart.  I really liked the sound of the soup and wanted to try the recipe out.  The show ended with some trivia cooking questions.

After the show, we walked around a bit and it became apparently that it really was a Gordon Ramsay show.  Half of the restaurants available on the day were his restaurants.  There was even a Ramsay-branded pub in the back and of course there were book signings for Gordon Ramsay cookbooks.  Eventually the smell of the food available made us all hungry and we managed to get a table to start our sampling…

Pork belly with spiced apple sauce puree; duck with pear chutney and toasted sourdough; red wine braised beef with oyster mushrooms and creamed mash; red snapper with couscous

Clockwise from top left: Pork belly with spiced apple sauce puree; duck with pear chutney and toasted sourdough; red wine braised beef with oyster mushrooms and creamed mash; red snapper with couscous.

Salmon cerviche with chilli, lime and coriander; cuttlefish wrapped in pancetta; hot chocolate fondant; sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce.

Clockwise from top left: Salmon ceviche with chilli, lime and coriander; cuttlefish wrapped in pancetta; hot chocolate fondant; sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce.

In the afternoon, we went to Angela Harnett’s cooking demonstration where she made one of her family favourites, pumpkin ravioli.  Afterwards, we wandered around the various stalls until we found a nice spot to rest our tired legs.  Ian and Jodie went and bought some drinks for us to sip on while we waited for the next cooking demonstration with Jason Atherton where he cooked panfried quail.

All in all, watching Gordon Ramsay’s cooking show was great but I still prefer the variety of stalls from the Farmers’ market at the BBC Good Food Show.

The BBC Good Food Show this year definitely lived up to its name.  There were hundreds of stalls, plenty of tastings and demonstrations.  We had booked our tickets weeks in advance and eagerly anticipated watching Heston Blumenthal in his Food Icon demonstration/show.  This year there was a great selection of stalls from the Farmers’ Market.

Here’s some of the tasting dishes we tried on the day.

Salt & pepper squid from Smith of Smithfield, panfried scallops from Theo Randall, duck from Kai Mayfair, chocolate fondant with green tea sauce from Sumosan

Clockwise from top left: Salt & pepper squid from Smiths of Smithfield, pan fried scallops from Theo Randall, chocolate fondant with green tea sauce from Sumosan, duck from Kai Mayfair.

Tuna with truffle oil from Sumosan, phad thai from Blue Elephant, ragú tortellini from Refettorio, salmon broth from L'ortolan

Clockwise from top left: Tuna with truffle oil from Sumosan, phad thai from Blue Elephant, salmon broth from L'ortolan, ragú tortellini from Refettorio.

After our satisfying lunch, we went over towards the demonstration hall for our much anticipated Food Icon session.  When the presentation started, my jaw dropped.  I couldn’t believe we paid to watch a rerun of his BBC Christmas TV programme on a projector screen.  Luckily it did improve when Heston began to give an insight to the journey he had with his restaurant The Fat Duck.  He talked about how to make the ‘perfect dish’ and how it is relative to each person’s taste, that is largely affected by the flavours of our childhood.  He also reckons that the easiest way to open the door to our memories is to bring out that nostalgia through his tasting menu.  To demonstrate what he means, we were asked to open up the envelope which we were given at the beginning of the session (and I thought it was going to be a draw for something! lol :) ) and put a Eucharist-like wafer into our mouths… it brought me back to my childhood memory of playing with my little cousin and we were pretending to eat baby powder…and yes, baby powder tastes awful.

Another highlight of the session was finding that sound actually has an effect on our taste.  Heston brought out some stats and figures from a study he did with a professor at Oxford University a few years ago.  He found that eating an oyster while listening to pounding waves and squealing seagulls tasted stronger and saltier than when eating an oyster while listening to barnyard noises.  This inspired his “Sound of the Sea” dish at his Fat Duck restaurant, which is made of seafood and edible seaweed served on a sand-like tapioca mixture with side-dish of iPod in a shell playing the sounds of breaking waves.  While this all sounds very convincing, I am yet to be converted ;)

Envelope containing a strip infused with frankincense and a thin wafer infused with baby smell, telling the beginnings of Fat Duck, watching his BBC Christmas show, making scrambled eggs ice cream.

Clockwise from top left: Envelope containing a strip infused with frankincense and a thin wafer infused with baby smell, telling the beginnings of Fat Duck, making scrambled eggs ice cream, watching his BBC Christmas show.

Even though the show was smaller than last year, we were happy we got to see the culinary alchemist himself  so it was definitely worth the trek to West London :)

We’re back from a magical 9 days in beautiful Greece! It’s our long holiday for the year and words can’t really describe how great it was. Also, here’s a tip. We went in early June, which is a great time to go. It’s just before the peak season (so not too many people crowding the streets and attractions) and it’s not too warm either (average temperatures in the 20s, Celsius of course not Fahrenheit). It was also sunny every single day! But that’s just the way Greece is so we’re told.

We’ve always wanted to visit Santorini – Mimi because of quality Angelina Jolie movies like Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life and me because of all the postcards and pictures I’ve seen (OK OK, so it was the other way around but saying it this way gets me in less trouble). Put it this way, Santorini is now our number 1 holiday destination amongst the places we’ve been (and we’ve been to quite a few). The pictures and movies don’t do the place justice.

The main reason for the trip was actually to spend time on Santorini. We decided to spend some time in Athens as well because the flights we picked had stopovers in Athens so we figured we might as well. That said, we didn’t regret including Athens as part of the trip. It’s historically one of the most important places in the world.

Day 1 – Yassas (Hello in Greek)

As most people try to do with these things, we went for the cheapest possible option we could find with the flights. We ended up flying Olympic Airlines departing Heathrow airport at 10pm in the evening. This meant that we arrived in Athens at around 4am and had to hang around Athens airport for about 2 hours to get on our connecting flight to Thira (Santorini’s airport). This was not too bad. Some of the shops were open and Athens airport is actually quite nice (thanks to the 2004 Olympics and the work they had to do in preparation for it). We had breakfast at the airport and I had my first Greek pastry of the trip. It was a Bougatsa from some airport cafe. Mimi had something a little more boring and non-Greek (which is why I can’t remember what it was) and of course we both had coffee (not Greek coffee though).

We eventually boarded our flight around 6am and were filled with excitement. We could finally see in person all those wonderful scenic images we saw in that Tomb Raider movie (I’m referring to the non-Angelina Jolie wearing really right clothing images of course). In fact, we saw the movie on TV again the other night and found that we recognised a few of the locations, in particular the place we sat to watch the sunset over Oia (they held a Greek wedding there in the movie). More about this later.

As we cruised along, we eventually came upon a bunch of islands. “Is that Santorini? Or that one? What about that one?” It didn’t matter really because they all looked great. Then an announcement was made by the captain. We thought it was to inform us that we were about to land and to buckle up. Instead, the captain informed us that Santorini’s airport was closed and we would have to find a temporary alternative to land for the moment. Disappointing, but it was only a small snag. We weren’t going to let some silly airport closure derail our holiday. They never did tell us why the airport was closed at the time.

We eventually landed at some unknown place and they loaded us all onto a bus and sent us to the terminal. I remember thinking “this looks kinda familiar, surely they didn’t.” Back in the terminal, they proceeded to hand us back our boarding passes so we could use them to board the plane again whenever Santorini decided to open the airport. One Japanese tourist asked the staff where we were. Her answer, “oh we’re back in Athens”. Most of the passengers reacted the same way. “What the heck?!?! We flew almost to Santorini and then now we’re back in Athens?!”. Luckily Santorini is actually not a long flight out…about half an hour in the air. So no biggie I thought. It was just surprising. So we sat around the airport bored again and hoping they would let us get on with our holiday ASAP.

I was almost going to get up and go buy us a coffee when they finally announced they would let us back on the plane because Santorini airport was now open. So we hopped back on, got on the plane and crossed our fingers that the airport would stay open. This time around, we did actually land in Santorini. It was about 3 hours later than we were expecting, but no matter. I felt worse for our driver (our hotel had arranged for one) who had to wait around for about 4 hours. The weather was wonderful. The temperature was perfect. We had nothing to complain about despite our slight delay.

The drive to the hotel was interesting. It was a mixture of locals and tourism related places all intermingled amongst one another. Santorini is still very rural in many ways, but the tourism industry has forced a lot of built-for-purpose establishments to serve the demand – the old mixed in with the new. We also drove through Fira, which is the main town on Santorini. Tourism is king in Fira. Nothing but cafes, restaurants, shops and hotels. There are still locals amongst it all, but they are there mainly to serve the tourism industry. Don’t get me wrong, Fira is still wonderfully picturesque and pretty but Santorini’s main industry is tourism so you have to bear that in mind.

We eventually reached our hotel, which was not in either of the 2 main towns (Fira and Oia) on Santorini. It was situated somewhere between (a little closer to Fira) in Imerovigli. The location was a little bit out of the way in terms of the hustle and bustle of Fira, but that’s what we were going for. And as we found out later, Fira is about a half hour walk from Imerovigli so it wasn’t that much of a big deal. Imerovigli itself has some shops, cafes and restaurants so it wasn’t as if we were located in the middle of nowhere. I like to think of it as a nice balance. It was actually VERY peaceful and VERY quiet. I suppose being there during the off-peak season helped.

Alright Ian, get to the point. Where the heck did you stay?! We stayed at the Anastasis Apartments. As seems to be the norm in Santorini, the owner runs the place. We were greeted to a very warm, homely welcome by the owner Despina, her husband and Katerina (who helps her run the place). They made us feel at home and I think it’s safe to say we’ve never had a better welcome at any commercial establishment we’ve been to. This place wins hands down and there is no close 2nd place that I can think of in our travels. We actually picked the Anastasis Aparments because they are the number 1 rated hotel on Santorini on TripAdvisor when we checked (I usually have a look at reviews on TripAdvisor before we book anything just to help ensure we don’t get a dud place to stay and it’s served us well thus far).

They took us to the hotel’s common room where Despina and Katerina sat us down and proceeded to give us advice on the things we could do, places to visit and restaurants to eat at (and to avoid). After this, they brought us some cakes to eat and a traditional Greek breakfast (all this was complimentary by the way) of yogurt, honey, home made marmalade (made by Despina’s mum) and muesli. Greek coffee accompanied this of course (although this was the last time they served us Greek coffee thanks to Mimi’s face when she first drank it – Despina gave us filtered coffee each subsequent time through the stay). This was the view from the table (for all photos in this post, click for a larger image)…

Needless to say, we sat there for some time. We eventually decided to go have a look at our room, which they were getting ready for us when we arrived (we got there in the morning so the room wasn’t ready yet). On they way there, our jaws dropped and we couldn’t help but stand and stare at this…

After picking our jaws off the ground, we walked around the corner to our room. We had booked one of their Superior apartments (in fact, I think it’s actually the one in picture on the website) and this was the view out from our room…

Needless to say, at this point we were more than impressed with Santorini in general. We took an hour or so to rest and just enjoy the place before deciding that we should actually do something. Most of the hotel guests were happy to laze by the pool all the time (and why wouldn’t you), but it was our first day. We decided to take a walk to Fira town.  There is actually a walking track in Santorini that links all the main towns and this happens to be right beside the hotel. So that’s what we did: we took the walking track to Fira. Instead of describing the walk in words, here are some pictures…

There were lots more pictures (Mimi went a little nuts with photos on this trip – we averaged 200 shots per day), but we don’t have that much space here. At some point in time (not sure when because we were too busy taking in the views), we knew we were almost at Fira because we saw this…

That’s Fira in the distance and Firostefani in the foreground. We reached Fira about 15 minutes later…

The 2nd shot is a view of the Caldera from Fira. You might notice the ship. There were quite a few of them each day because almost all Mediterranean cruises stop at Santorini. We spent the afternoon lazing around Fira window shopping and eating ice cream (can’t think of many better ways to spend an afternoon). When we got hungry (even after the ice cream), we decided to walk back to the hotel. Katerina had recommended one of the restaurants with a view of the Caldera in Firostefani (called “The Flame”) so that’s where we stopped on the walk back. Here’s what we had and the accompanying view during dinner…

Doesn’t get a lot better than this, we thought. Full of food and in wonderous amazement at where we actually were, we decided to take the slow stroll back to Imerovigli at dusk…

To top it all off, here’s the view from outside our room when we got back…

Day 1 was magical, but it would only get better.

Day 2 – Oia

We woke up a little bit late the next day. It wasn’t until about 1pm when we thought we should probably get out and about, especially when we had this waiting for us outside our room (no the cakes and coffee weren’t sitting there all morning – they only brought it to us after we woke up)…

We decided to take a walk to Oia and headed off straight after breakfast (even though it was already lunchtime). It was a little longer than we expected (2-3 hours), but the views on the way were worth it.

The above pictures were taken in chronological order. The 3rd one was taken the moment we could see Oia in the distance. Upon reaching Oia, it was…well I can’t do it justice. It was even better than what you see in the postcards so I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking.

Here’s one of the many churches in Oia…

As we wandered around the narrow, but very pretty streets of Oia, we noticed there were a heck of a lot less people compared to the crowd in Fira. There were also a lot more dogs lazing around (there seemed to be more cats in Fira). We even saw a wedding procession (and later saw them taking pictures around the town – you can’t really go wrong no matter where you pick to take your wedding shots in Oia). Here’s a shot back towards one section of Oia as we were walking around…

Eventually, we got to a lookout which had an amazing view of Oia and the rest of Santorini. For those that remember the scene in Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life where they filmed a wedding reception taking place (just before an “earthquake”), this lookout was the location of that reception. We also notice a fair number of people sitting around. It took us a moment to realise this was one of the places where you could get a view of the horizon, the sunset AND Oia at the same time. Here’s a shot back towards another part of Oia from the lookout…

We were actually early. It was around 6 or 7 pm and the sun wasn’t going to be setting until around 8:30. But we were tired from our long walk, so we thought we’d get ourselves a good spot and wait it out. It was the most peaceful, relaxing and wonderous hour and a half of the trip. We watched the lookout fill up with people, like a time lapse video in slow motion. We waited some more, everyone having a great time, lots of fun and most of all contented, happy and grateful that they were sharing the experience with loved ones. Sitting there, we could feel the images being engraved slowly onto the canvas of our long term memory. Worries are non-existent and you are thankful for being able to share it with your better half. We could have waited forever and it wouldn’t have mattered. It wasn’t just a visual experience. All senses are acutely heightened and absorb the surroundings. Emotions and dreams blend with tangible senses to achieve an experience like no other. I’m not a proponent of Zen-like states, but I would imagine this is what it feels like. So we waited, in subconscious meditation…and boy was it worth the wait…

The picture doesn’t do the experience justice, nor do my feeble attempts at stringing sentences together. This is one case where the picture only tells ten words when it needs to be telling a million.

Once the sun had set into the sea, we decided to take the advice of our hosts at the hotel and look for the fantastic seafood restaurant they raved about in Oia called “Dimitri’s”. The restaurant isn’t in the main town of Oia itself. It’s located by the sea, which can be reached via the road or a set of stairs. We took the stairs and about halfway down, spotted where we were headed.

It was dusk by the time we found the restaurant. Unfortunately, we weren’t the only ones who knew it was a good restaurant. All the adjacent restaurants were almost empty. Dimitri’s however, was full and we had to wait for a table. This was the wait of all waits (in a good way) because this was the view…

Roughly 15 minutes later, we were eventually seated at our table and had a wonderful, fresh meal. This was also where we discovered Saganaki (fried cheese). We would proceed to go around trying the Saganaki at every restaurant we ate at for the rest of the trip. My gut will never forgive me but I didn’t care at the time. Mmmm….Saganaki.

Oh, Mimi likes fried calamari so we had some too. It tasted like the sea. We had a whole fish and Greek salad as our mains. I didn’t care much for the salad, but that shouldn’t surprise anyone who knows me.

Satisfied with our glorious meal, we had the restaurant call us a cab (who drove like a madman) and headed back to the hotel. Even though we probably needed the 2-3 hour walk back, we weren’t exactly in the mood :-)

Day 3 – Chill-out day

We didn’t do much on this day, but it was our plan all along. Too many times, people go on holiday only to need a holiday from the holiday when they get back. Santorini lends itself to unwinding and relaxing. If you can’t relax in Santorini, you won’t be able to relax anywhere.

We went to lunch at a restaurant in the main part of Imerovigli (had Saganaki again of course, but not as good as Dimitri’s) with this view…

After lunch, we walked over to a Cafe and had Greek iced coffee. Very nice, but very sweet. Then it was back to the hotel where we spent the rest of the day doing this…

The view of the sunset from the hotel wasn’t to shabby either. This picture was taken from the front door of our room…

Day 4 – Volcano and Jacuzzi

We’d been debating whether to bother heading out to the centre of the volcano (the caldera is actually the crater of the volcano), which was a short boat trip from Fira port. There are other tours that include the volcano cruise, soak at the hot spring and a sunset cruise. But Katerina had warned us that it wasn’t good value to do everything and that we should just do the volcano cruise if we wanted to get out there. We eventually decided to because we’d already spent the previous day relaxing by the pool. But most of all, we were looking forward to the Jacuzzi in the evening. The hotel allows each guest couple exclusive use of the hotel’s jacuzzi for an hour as part of the stay. This hour has to be booked in advance and ours was in the evening on this day. We’d also picked a time slot very close to sunset so had high expectations.

We decided to walk to Fira again because we wanted to have breakfast there and thought the walk would work up a good appetite (no Saganaki available for breakfast much to our disappointment). We eventually arrived and went straight to one of the outlets to buy boat tickets for the volcano. Apparently the price is regulated so the cost is the same no matter where the tickets are purchased from. Fira port is obviously by the sea, so to get there we could have either walked down a set of winding stairs or pay for the cable car ride. We picked the cable car because the stairs smelled like donkey poo (there are a bunch of old guys at the bottom charging people for donkey rides up the stairs back to Fira town).

Here’s another nice looking church we found on one of the back streets in Fira…

The view back towards Fira from the boat were spectacular, as with everything else on Santorini…

When we got to the centre of the volcano, we were surprised to find that there was a guy collecting money for entry. We were somewhat surprised because no one had told us about it. We had assumed the boat tickets included entry. It wasn’t that expensive (a couple of Euros from memory), but it didn’t exactly fill us with a sense of warmth. We weren’t going to let this spoil our day so we paid and walked on. And walked…and walked some more. Here’s a picture…

One is enough because everything pretty much looked like this (not always with the flowers). To be blunt, it was just a bunch of volcanic rocks. It was still nice, but this was thanks to the views of Santorini itself. So if you ever visit, you can skip the trip out to the centre of the volcano. Spend your time doing other things…like relaxing by the pool.

We had lunch at a great place in Fira itself. Katerina had recommended a local restaurant she said all the locals ate at called “Taverna Nikolas”, which has no menu. They have daily specials read out by the waiter depending on the fresh ingredients brought in that day. Again, Katerina’s recommendation was spot on. It was home-style, authentic, comfort food. More than satisfied with our lunch, we walked around Fira once again just to ensure we covered all of it (which we didn’t have time to on the first day) and then walked back to the hotel.

The afternoon was spent by the pool again (and in the pool) in anticipation of the hour in the jacuzzi. When we got there, this awaited us….

Which is exactly where we stayed with our champagne (courtesy of Despina)…

Through to sunset…

It was very special, which is actually an understatement.

We had rented a car for around 30 Euros so we could drive around the next day. The other reason was that we needed to get to the airport and calling a cab would have cost almost as much. The rental company had just dropped the car off at the hotel for us in the early evening so we decided to make use of it by going out for dinner. One of Katerina’s restaurant recommendations was Toy Nikoy, a 5-10 minute drive down the road from the hotel, so that’s where we went. Upon arrival we weren’t sure it was open as it was completely empty. Then a waiter appeared out of nowhere and ushered us in. We were wondering what we were getting ourselves into and seriously worried, but it was too late. We’ve never walked into an empty restaurant (and with good reason) so this was a first. Had Katerina steered us wrong this time? Luckily, she hadn’t. The food was not bad at all. The restaurant was simply suffering from the fact it wasn’t peak holiday season and that they are located in the middle of nowhere (you really need a car to get to the restaurant). Saganaki was ordered as an entrée yet again of course. And there we were, in our own private restaurant being waited on exclusively to cap off another unique Santorini day.

Day 5 – Driving around

Our last day in Santorini :-(

So, we took advantage of the fact we had a car and decided to visit a few of the beaches. Santorini isn’t known for its beaches, but they aren’t too shabby. After driving and getting somewhat lost, we arrived at the Red Beach in Akrotiri. We didn’t actually walk down to the beach but we did take this picture.

Off we went again, this time trying to find Kamari Beach, known for its black sand.

We ended up having lunch by Kamari where the waiter convinced us (well, me actually) to order their Lobster pasta. It wasn’t cheap but it was very tasty and the Lobster was fresh. I figured we could given it was our last day (for now) in Santorini and we should enjoy ourselves. What about Saganaki you ask? Of course! It was the entrée.

The afternoon was spent walking around Oia again (we loved it so much the first time we had to go back again). We were also on the lookout for a souvenir, hand-painted bottle with an image of Santorini. We had seen quite a few during our first visit to Oia so we thought it was a good idea. We eventually found the one for us and snapped it up (an olive oil bottle currently sitting in our kitchen). I don’t usually like buying souvenirs (as Mimi can attest to) because I’ve seen way too many just put aside, hidden in cupboards or thrown away. My view is that the photos ARE the souvenirs. This time around however, I relented. It’s a VERY nice olive oil bottle.

Our time in Santorini was almost up. We took a few more happy snaps around Oia (almost empty on this day for some reason so we got some great shots with no one else in the picture) and drove to the airport. I should mention that returning a rental car on Santorini is done in a rather interesting manner. As someone who has rented many cars (thanks to my many work-related trips), this was even more peculiar. They told us to park the car in the airport car park and leave the keys under the mat. Not only were we to do this, but the car had to be left unlocked! Then again, Santorini is such a small place that if someone steals a car it isn’t too difficult to find it again. We can attest to this fact as we had basically driven around the whole island and certainly covered the coastline.

Next stop, Athens.

Day 6 – First full day in Athens

Santorini is a difficult destination to top for spectacular views. But Athens is equally difficult to top from a historical standpoint. With our thoughts still on Santorini, we awoke a little bit later than we wanted and just made it in time for the hotel breakfast. It’s a good thing we did because this was the view…

If you’re scratching your head, that’s the Parthenon in the distance. After breakfast, we strolled on over to the Acropolis to have a closer look. We passed all the historical bits and pieces at the foot of the Acropolis. Here’s a sampling (with descriptions)…

On the way up to the Parthenon, it’s a little difficult to miss the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, where they still hold live performances today…

Some scaffolding holding up part of the structure. Much of Athens is an archaeological site and a lot of the structures are being restored…

View of the Temple of Olympian Zeus from the Parthenon. Our hotel is across the road from it so this is the reverse of the breakfast photo…

Here part of the Ancient Agora of Athens at the base of the Acropolis…

Here’s the Stoa of Attalos within the Agora where they showcase a bunch of ancient artifacts…

We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Monastiraki, Kerameikos and Plaka, where we came across yet another Starbucks…

Of course, we didn’t stop. We figured we should stick to Greek coffee (or taking a sip of mine in Mimi’s case). We had lunch at some random place in Plaka where the food was edible but not fantastic. We didn’t have the benefit of Katerina’s advice like in Santorini. After lunch, we walked around Plaka a little more and then headed across the road to Hadrian’s Arch

Right next to Hadrian’s Arch is the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which we saw from the Parthenon earlier in the day…

Of course, both of these are directly across the road from our hotel

We then headed up to road to Syntagma Square to take a look at the Greek Parliament building where we managed to catch the changing of the guard (which immediately reminded me of John Cleese and his silly walk)…

For dinner, we headed back to Plaka. Luckily, Mimi had done some research and we found ourselves at Taverna Platanos, one of the oldest establishments in Athens. It wasn’t the easiest place to find, but well worth the effort. Great value, great tasting comfort food again. The meat just melted in our mouths. By the end of dinner, we were done walking. Luckily our hotel is right next to Plaka (literally) so it was a short walk back to rest up for the next day.

Day 7 – Research day

We noticed some interesting looking buildings from the Parthenon the previous day. These turned out to be the National Observatory of Athens and the Pnyx. We decided to try walking to them for a closer look but stopped by the new Acropolis Museum on the way. It wasn’t open yet, but they were allowing people a preliminary look around the ground level. There were some exposed excavation areas as well and it looks like it’s going to be a very nice place when completed.

It was a bit of a walk, but we eventually reached the Pnyx.

There were a bunch of chairs set up and a podium with the Olympic rings clearly displayed. We guessed that they had set it up for some ceremonial thing related to the upcoming Beijing Olympics but never found out if it was. We did walk to the observatory, but didn’t bother taking a closer look because there was a film crew there and we didn’t feel like becoming extras on Greek TV :-)

We were looking into the possibility of taking a day trip to Delphi the next day and one option was the day tour costing 90 Euros. The other option was to do it ourselves by taking a bus, which was by far the cheaper option. We decided to follow the instructions we found online in advance in the event we got hopelessly lost the next day (and missed out on the opportunity to get to Delphi). It’s a 3 hour bus ride so we didn’t want to take a chance. Basically if it was too difficult we were going to go for the tour.

The instructions said that the bus terminal was located at 260 Liosion Street. We had asked the hotel front desk and they said we could walk there from Larissa metro station. So away we went, getting off at Larissa station. We found our way to Liosion Street and started walking, albeit in the wrong direction for about 5 minutes. Luckily, we realised this and turned around. We walked…and we walked….and walked. Some of the neighbourhoods we walked through were downright dodgy but Liosion Street is fairly busy so we weren’t too worried. We kept walking, until eventually we reached Attiki metro station. We said to ourselves: “Attiki metro station? What?!” We had reached the next metro station (it took us almost half an hour) and we were still nowhere near 260 Liosion Street. To make things a little more interesting, there was a crazy lady at Attiki cursing everyone she could get near and spitting down at people walking up the stairs from the metro station itself. She was kicking the back of each bus that went by as well. At this point, we thought to ourselves that we’d done enough “research” into the Delphi thing. I really wanted to just take the day tour but Mimi convinced me that we should show up at Attiki station the next day and hop on a bus. As long as it was a bus headed down Liosion, we would be fine. We could just get off when we saw the bus station. I agreed.

We planned to spend the afternoon in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, which holds a lot of Greece’s (and the world’s) history in it. Back on the metro we got, from Attiki to Omonia station. The museum isn’t in a very convenient location if you want to take the metro – Omonia is the closest. It was roughly a 20 minute walk but we got there eventually…

As she does in most museums, Mimi took lots of photos of artifacts. I’m not normally the type to be impressed with museums, but this place had lots of cool stuff (my personal favourite was the Antikythera mechanism). I won’t put the pictures here because we’ll run out of storage space :-)

After a couple of hours in the museum, we decided to do some shopping and headed for Attica, the largest department store in Athens. We did make a detour via Kolonaki because I wanted to take a look at the “trendy” part of Athens. It was quite a nice area to have a meal, meet up with friends or just hang around. Attica was just like any other large department store. To Mimi’s credit, she didn’t buy a single thing.

On the way back to the hotel and just round the corner from Attica, we found this…

It was a workout session (I think it was a spin class) in an open public area that was drawing a crowd. The loud music had a lot to do with it, but I suppose the participants in skin-tight gym clothes might have helped to keep the crowd there.

Day 8 – Delphi

We set out pretty early thanks to the previous day’s adventure. This time, we took the metro to Attiki and got on a bus along Liosion Street. The problem on the bus was that we had no idea where to get off. We thought it would be easy however. After all, a bus terminal should stand out – or so we thought. Along the bus went. 5 minutes later, still no number 260. The numbers were still smaller than 260 so we thought we were ok. 10 minutes later and we were getting closer. The next moment, I saw 270. 270?!?! Where was the frigging bus station? So we got off at the next opportunity and walked backwards. Walking…walking…walking. Still no bus terminal. And then we saw it…260 Liosion Street. It was…wait for it…a tyre shop! Now we were REALLY confused, but we didn’t give up. We walked up a little and looked down every perpendicular street until lo and behold, we saw what looked like a large terminal. Power-walking up the street, we had our fingers crossed hoping this was it. Thankfully, it was and we breathed a collective sigh of relief. For the record, the bus ticket was around 10 Euros per person each way. Quite reasonable for a 3 hour trip, and MUCH cheaper than the 90 Euros for the tour.

The bus trip wasn’t the most pleasant one I’ve ever been on. The bus driver kept turning the air conditioning off until it got unbearably hot, at which point he’d turn it back on until it got bearably hot and would turn it off again. There were a couple of stops along the way, including a toilet break at some motel in the middle of nowhere. Three very warm hours later, we were finally in Delphi…

Dephi was considered the centre of the earth and universe in ancient Greece and the landscape is certainly fitting. Of course, not being on an organised tour meant we had to figure out how to get around. We eventually found our way to the main street in Delphi and kept walking. The main thing Mimi wanted to see in Delphi was the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia…

It was a fair walk there and we were worried about not having enough time as we’d bought tickets for the 4pm bus back to Athens. We also walked around the ancient Gymnasium right beside the Sanctuary. On the way back to the bus terminal, we stopped briefly outside the Delphi Museum which is at the base of the main archaeological site in Delphi which houses the Temple of Apollo…


Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to take a look but my logic was that we’d seen enough archaeological sites and museum artifacts so we weren’t missing much :-)

Here’s the bus terminal in Delphi…

Not quite as obvious as your typical bus terminal, but then again neither was the one in Athens.

Back in Athens, we had dinner at a place round the corner from our hotel that was apparently recommended by the Lonely Planet guide book, or so the waiter told us. It looked decent enough, so we sat down. Of course, we ordered Saganaki again, which was pretty good. I also had some Greek beer (Mythos) to add to the whole experience. After dinner, we decided to take a walk around the area to walk off dinner and to take some night shots. Here’s a sample.

It was 1am before we decided to head back to the hotel. It was after all, the last day of our Greek holiday and we wanted to soak it all in.

Day 9 – Back to London

Our flight wasn’t too early so we woke up late, but still in time for breakfast. We took it easy on purpose just to unwind from the previous day. It was a great trip, one we will never forget. Santorini and Athens were each wonderful in their own way. But Santorini was magical and will take some serious beating.

By the way, does anyone know where we can find good Saganaki in London? :-)

Hope everyone had a Happy Easter!

We must admit that we have been slacking on posts, it seems like a while since our last entry. Happy to tell you that veggieleaf is on the move again! On the Easter weekend, wind took us to Paris.

We had an early 5am start on Easter Friday morning. With caffeine fix in our hands, we hopped onto the 7am train at St Pancras International station. As it turned out, our ticket actually included breakfast. Their coffee was so strong, by the end of the 3 hour train ride, I was really feeling the coffee buzz.

We arrived around 10:30am at Gare du Nord station. After we picked up a local map from the Information booth and purchased the 4-day Paris Musuem Pass, which is a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and in most cases queues for these passes are shorter! We then caught the Metro to Porte Malliot station and checked into our hotel to drop off our overnight bags before heading out for a wander.

Our first stop was Arc de Triomphe, the famous arch was built to commemorate those who fought in the Napoleon wars. We climbed 200+ stairs to the top and the view from the top was great despite the rain and strong winds. Next we walked along Champs-Élysées for a bit, we couldn’t help but noticed that in the short period of 30 minutes, the rain had stopped and clouds started to clear. It was perfect timing as we ended up at a really nice spot with that postcard view of the Eiffel Tower. From there, it was a 15-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. Only the first and second levels of the Eiffel Tower were opened due to the strong winds. The panoramic view was clear and amazing.

Arc de TriompheChamps-Élysées from Arc de TriompheEiffel TowerView from Eiffel TowerView of Jardin de TuileriesView of Seine River

We bought freshly-made crepes with Nutella from one of the many snack stores around the Eiffel Tower and ate the hot crepes while strolling along the Seine River. Along the way we walked past a mini car-show then the Grand Palace (which is now a museum) and Les Invalides (where Napoleon Bonaparte’s tomb lies). We crossed the Place de la Concorde and headed towards the Louvre museum via a nice park called Jardin de Tuileries. Inside the park, we found a huge spider on the lawn… literally. This happened to be the Louise Bourgeois’ Giant Spider which I vividly remember seeing outside London’s Tate Modern museum earlier in January. I hate spiders! It was around 5pm when we arrived at the Louvre museum and we still had to queue. Little did we realise how exhausted we were from the day’s walking, we only managed to see one painting – Mona Lisa, before calling it a day.

Les InvalidesSpider in Jardin-de-TuileriesMona Lisa

On Saturday we went back to the Louvre museum to see it properly. We managed to spend a good 4 hours there and saw what we wanted to see. Next stop was the Notre Dame de Paris. We barely had time to find our umbrellas from my bag when it started pouring cats & dogs and suddenly it changed to snow then switched back to rain again after 5 minutes. By the time we reached Notre Dame, it was clear again! And all this time I had thought weather in London was bad!

Notre DameInside Notre Dame

On Sunday we went to visit the Versailles (or Chateau de Versailles). We went by the RER regional train from Neuilly Porte-Melliot, changed at Champ du Mars Tour Eiffel before catching another train to Versailles Rive Gauche station.

Queues outside VersaillesEntrance of VersaillesBeautiful gardensAmazing architectureHall of MirrorsIntricate sculptures

On our way back, we got off at Champ du Mars Tour Eiffel and walked directly to Musee de Orsay to spend the rest of the afternoon. Here are a few photos Ian took which were focused :)
Painting 1Painting 2Painting 3

On Monday, we were going to do a bit of window shopping. To Ian’s relief, it was a public holiday, most shops were closed. Coincidentally as I was going through the tourist guide to work out our next stop, Ian suddenly got really excited when he spotted Laduree on the directory. So we gave up shopping and decided to go there for lunch instead.

Lunch was nice. Ian had a club sandwich (boring) while the salad I had was fantastic. For dessert, Ian had a deliciously smooth dark chocolate mousse cake. I had chestnut ice cream with bits of candied chestnuts which were quite sweet. In fact it was sweeter than my coffee with 2½ sugars so you can imagine how sweet it really was.

Ian’s club sandwichMy saladDesserts…mmm

We made a few more photo stops, including the Paris Opera House (or L’Opéra), Moulin Rouge with the infamous windmill and the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur before we headed towards Gard du Nord to catch the train back to London.

Paris Opera HouseMoulin RougeStrange place for a petrol stationSacré-CœurSacré-Cœur viewsMore Sacré-Cœur views

On another note, my parents are here for a few weeks. They are currently in Rome. In the blink of an eye, two and a half weeks had come and passed already. I can’t believe it’s nearly time for them to leave. Wish we had done more sightseeing together but really happy with the time we spent together plus all the goodies they brought with them, some including Tim Tams and Aunty Nellie’s home-made almond crescent cookies!

Friday was my Birthday, so as we’ve been doing throughout the past few weeks, we ate some more. Mimi took me to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Soho. Robuchon is arguably the chef of chefs, so we went to dinner expecting only the best. Of course, we knew the concept behind his L’Atelier restaurants was a little more informal and very “Tapas-like” and accordingly we expected things to be a little less formal.

Naturally, we arrived late. Mimi’s not capable of being on time for anything, but that’s another issue for discussion at a later date :) We were told that because we were 45 minutes late, we would have to eat fast as they needed the table back at 8:15pm (this was at 6:45pm). We just said OK and figured it was sort of our fault anyway and didn’t feel like fussing about it. We were seated at our table, which was not so much a table, but more like a bar (exactly like at a sushi train restaurant). We didn’t mind that too much, except that even though there was plenty of space, they made us sit right next to another couple. I mean, if we’re paying that much for food, they should at least make the effort to keep everyone as comfortable as possible.

View of the table/bar area

Putting the seating issue aside, we settled down and browsed through the menu, which is exactly the same at all the L’Atelier restaurants all over the world. The waiters didn’t even have to move around. All they did was hang around behind the bar area and serve us over it. The area behind the bar also had a big hot-plate which they used to cook simple things that just required searing. I think they had a larger kitchen for things that required more complex preparation that we didn’t have a direct view of. Our waiter suggested we either order the set menu or pick 2 tasting dishes and a main. We went for the tasting dishes and a main.

Here’s what I had:

Scallop carpaccioRavioli of langoustine in Savoy cabbageFried whiting coated with crispy breadcrumbs, lemon and herb butterSome sort of exotic coffee dessert which I’ve forgotten the name of

And here’s what Mimi had:

Crispy langoustine fritter with basil pistouClams stuffed with garlic and mushroomsScallops with black truffleCaramel and chocolate cake with caramalised banana ice cream

Overall, the food was as you would expect. Exquisite (yeah sounds posh, but “good” or “nice” doesn’t do the food justice). The highlights were the Crispy langoustine fritter with basil pistou and both desserts.

At about 8:05pm, our waiter asked if we would like coffee, but it turned out to be a nice way of telling us to go to the bar upstairs and to vacate our “table”. We didn’t really mind as we weren’t in the mood to have our night ruined by getting too particular about things almost all restaurants do to a certain extent. As it turned out, they have a very nice, intimate, romantic bar which you could spend hours in if you like. We ended up staying there for just over an hour (or maybe it was 2) and then left after a few drinks each.

As you would expect, we had a great evening out. The food was as you would expect. The company even better. And our food tour of Michelin star chef restaurants continues…next time.

But like Mimi said, we should probably head on over to the gym first.

Some of you may know, I celebrated my 28th birthday on Tuesday…I don’t feel old, even though Ian always kindly reminds me how much closer I am getting to 30. I do feel like life goes by quickly. As I look back, so much has happened last year and there are so much to be thankful for.

I spent the day as usual. Slept in, checked my emails, went to our usual Moorish cafe for lunch and did a bit of cleaning around the apartment.

For the ’surprise’ this year, Ian took me to a really fancy restaurant called Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s. It was a gastronomic treat as Gordon Ramsay is one of only three chefs in the UK to hold three Michelin stars and he has been awarded a total of 12 Michelin stars for his various restaurants. Some of you may have heard of him from his TV series such as The F Word, Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares and Hell’s Kitchens. I was keen to see what the fuss was about.

The art deco foyer was stunning and dining room was romantic with all the soft furnishings. Once seated, we sampled the lovely canapé of truffle mousse and smoked salmon with cream cheese as we made our choices from the a la carte menu. The sommelier brought over a wine ‘book’ and he helpfully chose a nice white for us. Pre-starter was pumpkin veloute which was creamy, rich and buttery with a hint of truffle oil. Mmm…a very good start.

For entreé Ian’s cannelloni of Cromer crab and herb wrapped in smoked salmon, roasted pumpkin purée was sweet and really lovely. My ravioli of Dorset blue lobster and salmon poached in a lemongrass bisque, basil vinaigrette was wonderfully delicious, it was the best dish I’ve eaten this year.

For main Ian’s pork belly, roasted potatoes, carrots, parsnips and glazed apple looked fantastic; the pork was juicy and tender, although the crackling was too hard apparently so Ian is still biased towards Aria’s and Quay’s back in Sydney :) I had the pan-fried Mediterranean stonebass, Cromer crab and celeriac cannelloni, summer vegetable blanquette, lemon thyme velouté; the stonebass was alright, skin crispy, cannelloni was refreshingly sweet and the sauce was nice.

After a bit of a break, we sampled pre-dessert which was a tiny shot glass filled with layers of cream fraîche, orange, mascarpone, light lemongrass jelly.  For those who may not know, Ian hates orange with a vengeance.  Even the waiter was sorry when he saw what Ian did to his pre-dessert and asked if he wanted something else.   Ian waited patiently for his dessert which was poached pear, chocolate fondant and bitter chocolate parfait. I had the cinnamon crème brûlée, red wine sorbet and pistachio sablé with passionfruit sauce. Both were really delicious in their own right.

To finish off we were given petit fours which was dark chocolate truffles and marzipan balls with ice cream filling coated in crushed buttery toffee that literally burst in your mouth when you bite into it.

Christmas decorationsBeautiful deco)

Service throughout had been as friendly, charming and efficient as you would expect in any of London’s best restaurants, the whole dining experience had been fabulous and memorable.

Time to go to the gym I think…

Our festivities continued through the holiday season and New Year’s Eve (NYE) was no exception. Although we were out of London during Christmas, we decided to experience one NYE in London. After all, it may be embarrassing if someone asks you what it’s like and you have no idea even after having lived in a place for a few years (not that we’ve been in London for even a year yet).

Instead of roughing it out in the cold and crowding with everyone along the river, we decided to splurge for a 5 course NYE dinner at Skylon Restaurant at the Royal Festival Hall right next to the London Eye. Of course, it’s not something we’re likely to ever do again given the price tag, but we thought doing it once would be fine.

London Eye - pre NYE fireworksSkylon Restaurant

The restaurant itself was very nice and also fully booked. There was also a live band that seemed to only have a repertoire or pre-1980 songs, but they were quite good, if a bit loud. We were singing along to the likes of ABBA, Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis all night. The Royal Festival Hall itself was having a dance party of sorts, so the area was filled with people. But it was still quite comfortable because only people with special “Royal Festival Hall” passes were allowed in the general area for security reasons. The food was nice, but nothing to write home about. We were pretty full afterwards though, so I guess we can’t complain they didn’t feed us.

Entree - Pumpkin SoupEntree - Scallop CarpaccioEntree - Pan fried Foie GrasMimi’s main course - Fish (forgot what it was exactly)Ian’s main course - VealPre dessertDessert - Apple Parcel

What we didn’t realise was that while the restaurant was right by the London Eye and on the Thames river, we couldn’t really see much of the fireworks from the restaurant due to logistics. So at about 11:30pm, the staff came around and suggested we get our coats and head on outside to get a good view of the show. Here’s a photo of the crowd waiting for the countdown…

Outside the restaurant waiting for the countdown to 2008

And thanks to the BBC and YouTube, here is a video of the fireworks.

Quite spectacular in hindsight. If we hadn’t seen the BBC’s coverage, we wouldn’t have realised that it was actually a good show. From where we were standing, we just saw a lot of flashing stuff through all the smoke. I guess that’s what you get if you are too close to where the fireworks are being launched from. Still, I don’t think it is as good as Sydney’s…but I’ll always be biased about anything that I compare to home. Sydney also has the advantage of having the prettiest harbour in the world as a canvas.

We left the restaurant at 1:30am and decided to walk to Embankment tube station as it was a direct line back to our area. Unfortunately, we didn’t realise they closed it because of the anticipated unmanageable congestion from people trying to get home. So we thought we’d walk to Westminster tube station, which is the next stop. That too was closed for the same reason. We were told that the closest open tube station was actually Victoria…roughly a 20 minute walk away.

As with all NYE celebrations in most countries, there is an aftermath and lots of cleaning to be done by the council. On our walk between Embankment and Westminster tube stations, we took a picture.

The aftermath

To Westminster council’s credit, they cleaned it up pretty quickly and efficiently.

When we got to Victoria station, the crowd was HUGE. There was a mass horde of people waiting at the entrance to the station because they couldn’t get in. So we decided against attempting to take public transport and thought that since we were so full anyway, we would walk it off all the way back home in the cold. Actually, it was about 5 degrees, so not too bad.

……….2 hours later we were still only at South Kensington tube and gave up trying to walk back. We knew for a fact that South Kensington was at least a half hour walk back home and that was at normal pace. We had slowed down to “granny pace” by then due to fatigue. So we decided to head for the station and thankfully the crowd wasn’t that bad.

We eventually got back at around 4am. Luckily for us, we didn’t have any plans for the 1st until dinner…and it was a really late one at that. All things taken into account, it was a fun NYE and a real experience.

For those who wondered why we haven’t been checking our emails second half of last week, it was because we were in Spain. Ian had to go to Seville for work and he had a brilliant idea of staying there til Saturday night. I hesitated at first thinking that I really should be job searching rather than spending my savings but fond memories of Seville came straight into my mind – flamenco dancing, eating tapas, chocolate con churros and oh did I mention shopping? The idea of going to Seville suddenly became more appealing and I decided on Tuesday that I would go with Ian Wednesday night. I reckoned I’ve had enough of eating fish balls and egg noodles from the past 3 weeks and cannot bear the thought of eating more by myself.

The city of Seville has really been modernised since my last visit, which was 5 years ago, there are now numerous contemporary buildings and new apartments throughout the city. While roaming around the city, subconsciously I found myself walking along the green bike lanes. I must admit I can be one of those annoying pedestrians whom cyclists have to maneuver around. However, you will be pleased to know that Seville has now put in place these new public bike rental services called Sevici system. It is a fantastic concept and a great way to see the city. We saw many of these bike parking stations all around town.

Seville Sevici Bike System

It costs 10€ for an annual membership or 5€ per week and when you pick up a bike the first half hour is free, the next hour is 50 cents and 1€ per hour thereafter. This also means as long as you can ride to the next station within 30 minutes you could potentially ride for free.

Within Seville, a well-preserved historical centre remains. As I wandered through the narrow cobbled streets, there were many traditional shops selling flamenco dresses, embroidered silk scarves and hand-made jewellery, others were selling ceramic tiles and plates with hand painted designs. This city is fringed with orange trees, much to Ian’s delight :P After weaving through the cobbled streets for some time, I managed to find myself at the beautiful Cathedral of Seville. It is one of the largest medieval and Gothic cathedrals in the world and it used to be an Almohad Mosque. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is also found inside this cathedral. To add to the medieval impression, there are horse-drawn carriages outside the cathedral which take tourists around town for a fee. It was a rather strange contrast to see many of these drivers simultaneously talking on their mobile phones. From across from the Cathedral is the Alcázar which was originally built as a Moorish Palace.

Seville CathedralSeville CathedralNearby churchNarrow streets of SevilleBeautiful architectureHorse drawn carriages

After a quick coffee stop, I decided to walk along the Guadalquivir river. With heavy traffic in the background, I saw the Torre del Oro which was built as a watchtower in the Almohad dynasty then further along the road (Paseo de Christobal Colon) was Teatro de la Maestranza and Seville bullring.

Torre del OroSeville bull ringGuadalquivir RiverStreet of SevilleLogo of Pizza Hut from the ’80s still in use

I managed to accidentally wander into La Campana and then it was shopping all the way through to a famous street called Calle Sierpes (Tracy, if you’re reading this, Catunambu Cafe where we had chocolate con churros is still there!). As it was a weekday, the streets were quite bare except for a few keen tourists. I was also keeping an eye on the time, it was getting close to 2pm which mean siesta time. For those who may not know, siesta is traditionally a nap time which usually occurs between 2-3pm in Spain. From my last visit to Seville, my friend Tracy and I were literally shooed out of a shop because they had to close shop at 2pm on the dot and it was impossible to find anything that was opened. On this trip it was different, most shops stayed opened. And it makes sense. There are now many more international brands (e.g. H&M and at least four to five Zara & Mango shops can be found within Seville) so I guess these stores cannot afford to lose an hour of business everyday. Apparently, siesta is now considered more of a lunch hour commercially.

FansCalle Sierpes

Generally Sevillanos eat pretty late. Breakfast is around 10am, lunch is around 2pm and dinner is commonly around 9pm-10pm. Restaurants are opened til 2am. We arrived late on Wednesday night so conveniently we ate tapas at the restaurant downstairs and very soon it became clear that some waiters can be quite brusque in Seville. Ian’s colleagues recommended 2 good restaurants. On Thursday night, we tried a modern Spanish restaurant called Komo and had 5-course degustation for 32€, the menu was a fusion mixture of Spanish, Mediterranean, Japanese and perhaps Chinese. Produce was really fresh, food tasted great, it was fantastic value. On Friday night we tried a different restaurant on the same street called Novo where food was cooked more traditionally. I really liked their prawn, avocado and green salad in honey vinaigrette dressing with pinenuts.

On Saturday, we put on our walking shoes and prepared ourselves for our own grand walking tour which covered everything I mentioned above plus more :) As we went downstairs to look for breakfast, we made a discovery and found a little shop called Calenteria (on Calle Cano y Cueto) opposite from our hotel that sells the most amazing chocolate con churros! Normally you get only 3-4 churros from a local cafe and usually they are made in advance but at Calenteria for 5€ you get the bagful and the churros are made fresh. Hot chocolate has the consistency that coats the churros just right. We bought some to share and ate them at the tables outside Restaurante el 3 de Oro next door.

Feeling content, we made our way towards Cathedral of Seville, then visited Alcázar, Torre del Oro and the bullring. From Av de la Constitucion, just off Plaza de San Francisco, there was a weekend market with many stalls selling different Christmas decorations. I bought this tiny souvenir to remind me of ‘jamon’ from Spain :)

Jamon

We had lunch at a local cafe on Av de la Constitucion, Ian had what the locals were having and ordered the grilled pork with fried egg and chips and I ordered a paella. After lunch we did a quick detour into the University of Seville (Universidad de Sevilla) and took these photos.

University of SevilleUniversity of SevilleUniversity of Seville

Next we visited the famous Plaza de España which used to be the site of the Spanish pavilion from the 1929 exhibition. Currently this plaza is used as Government buildings and the courtyard is used for exhibitions. Right across the road is the huge garden of Parque María Luisa.

Plaza de EspañaPlaza de EspañaSpanish tile designBarcelona tile designSeville tile designPlaza de España

By the end of our grand walking tour, we were so exhausted we could barely walk back to the hotel. It was especially painful walking on those cobble-stoned paths! Luckily for us, Calenteria was still opened. This time we bought two servings but we chomped it down in no time!

Chocolate con churros

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